Buffalo Parrot

On this page we will go through some basic training and some behavior problems you may encounter with your Parrots.  The biggest thing we will stress is being patient.  Parrots at times have some strange habits and may do things that will boggle the human mind.  Always remember your Parrot is a "prey" animal and is programmed as such.  Never approach your Parrot too quickly.  This will just startle him.  Remember that you want to gain his trust.  Never stare at your Parrot especially with both eyes.  Predatory animals do this and it may freak your Parrot out.  We try not to stare and will tilt our heads so only one eye is looking at our Parrots.  Start off by letting your Parrot get used to your hands.  Parrots don't know what human hands are for.  First try offering foods to your parrot with your hand.  This will eventually make him more comfortable with your hands when you are ready to start handling him.  You can basically call this HAND training.  Also if you already have another Parrot jealousy is a good tactic.  Parrots will usually want what the other has.  Take this Parrot out and hold him so the other Parrot can see this.  When we take our Senegal out and our Pacific Parrotlet sees this she goes BONKERS until we eventually open her cage to handle her.  Talk to your parrot in a happy soothing voice.  Heck, talk really goofy!  They will love this and be amused.  They also love to be sang to.  All this will help your parrot in gaining your trust and he will be more comfortable when your "hands on" training begins.                   

POSITIVE & NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT :  Positive reinforcement is when your Parrot gets something he desires (reward) after a certain situation or action.  In this case the reward is determined by the Parrot.  The reward could be a treat, toy, head scritch or an enthusiast praise by his owner.  Remember that an enthusiastic response from you can be considered unwanted reinforcement also!  Such as a bite and then a "yell" from you.  This will have excited the Parrot, and he probably will try it again to get that response.  Always praise good behavior with an enthusiastic tone of voice!  They eat this stuff up!  Negative reinforcement is when a Parrot performs a desired task/behavior to avoid possible discomfort or even pain.  An example of this would be to squirt the Parrot or hit it to get the result the owner desires.  This type of reinforcement should never be attempted.  It never works and will destroy the trusting relationship you are trying to build.   Never try dominating your Parrot by forcing it to do things.  Good behavior modification works by working/cooperating with your Parrot in a trusting and fun atmosphere.  

PARROT SENSES & INSTINCTS:   A Parrots instincts tell him to avoid conflict with a PREDATORY animal at all costs by flying a way as fast as it can.  If trapped most Parrots will fight back with there powerful beaks.  A Parrots instinct also tells him when to migrate, look for food & water, mate, & flock (socialize).  For millions of years Parrots have evolved into flying machines.  There bodies and lifestyle have been developed around flying.  Being able to fly affects their nature to the heights of everything in their environment.  Nesting sites that are too low will be ignored because they are not high enough from potential predators.  There is also a greater danger risk with food items being too low or on the ground.   EYE SIGHT-  Parrots eye sight is much better than us humans.  There eyes are much bigger in proportion because they are built to see detail at a distance.  Most Parrots see as well at night as us because they are most active during the day..with some exceptions.  Parrots see much more colors than humans see.  They can see ultraviolet light   SMELL/TASTE-  Parrots smell and taste are less then a humans.  They rely on there great eye sight & instincts to locate food.  This is the reason a Parrot can chow down a whole HOT pepper & enjoy it.  If we were to do that we would feel some pain at the very least.  HEARING-  A Parrots hearing is very strong compared to ours.  This is because Parrots are a PREY animal and hearing can be a first line of defense.  It is also believed by some "including" this writer that parrots can hear through "vibrations" as well.  Just as most of there distant relatives (Dinosaurs/Reptiles) did they can "feel" vibrations in there bodies & bones.  Parrots & dinosaurs have/had hollow bones making this a real possibility.  Parrots also hear ultra-sonic sounds like dogs do.  All of these instincts and senses increase each Parrots chances of survival in it's natural habitat.  INTELLIGENCE-  Just about all of you reading this know just about all Parrots have the ability to speak or mimic sounds.  That alone proves Parrots have intelligence.  They have very good memories, Know & want what amuses them, can sometimes sense when a human owner is mad, sad, or happy.  They bond with other Parrots & humans, telling us they have a certain amount of emotion.  Some Parrots can untie the most difficult of knots, escape out of the tightest of cages, and anticipate actions & acts.  They recognize new & strange objects that are placed in there cages, sometimes resulting in them not going near that area out of fear.  You just need to see "Alex" an African Grey Parrot that worked with Dr. Pepperberg.  This Parrot had an amazing vocabulary!  He had over 100 vocal labels for various objects, actions and colors.  He could also identify certain objects by there particular material.  Also there is A.J. an Indian Ring Necked Parakeet that can do tricks such as "dunk" a basketball & play "gulf" on national T.V.!  Then there is Snowball a Cockatoo who can dance to the beat of many different songs!  Our Opinion?  Parrots are MUCH smarter than we even think.    

Enrichment:  This will go a long waywith keeping your Parrot menatlly and physically healthy.  In the wild Parrots are constantly on the move and processing input from their environment.  Here is a small rundown you can provide your Parrots needs regarding enrichment.

Visual..  Parrots are very stimulated visually.  Periodically change their scenery, add a fish tank with fish and bubbles, have cartoons on the T.V. occasionally, hang foliage and bright flowers, shiny objects and even pictures of other Parrots.

Toys..  Many different varieties of toys will help to enrich your Parrots daily life.

Tactile..  This referees to "touching" by your Parrots beak, feet and feathers.  Toys and perches with many different textures and sizes will go a long way with this.  Offer plenty of toys and items your parrot can safely chew on.  Even different textures of foods will enlighten him.  Also try ice cubes or the warm rays of the son to enhance temperature stimulation.  Also, don't forget a good ole scritch on your Parrots head and neck as Parrots are social and love to be touched!

Auditory..  Vocalization is very important to a Parrot and they are always very tuned into whatever noises are in the area.  Songs, cartoons with goofy talk, tapes or noise machines of the jungle are all great ways to enrich your Parrot this way.  Parrots are most vocal in the morning and evening.  Let him vocalize at these times as it is in his blood to do so.

Dietary..  This can be used in many great ways and can keep your Parrot happy and healthy.  Always offer a wide variety of foods even if your Parrot turns a way from some of them.  Offer a variety of crunchy, soft foods etc.  Also offer foods at different temperatures such as room, warm and cold.  Add foods to different locations such as the cage bars, bottom of his cage or in foraging objects.

Social..  This is very important as Parrots are flock animals and are extremely social.  Depriving this will surely lead to problems.  Family members bonding, talking to, and spending time and, playing with your Parrot will help him in this way.  He will come to think of you as a part of his flock.  Other birds in your home will also help with this but isn't entirely necessary if you and your family members spend enough time with your parrot.

Learning your Parrots body language and habits can go a long way in having a trusting, rewarding relationship for the both of you!  Here we will give a basic rundown on the different types of body language and habits.

PINNING OR FLASHING:  Parrots are able to control their Irisis.  Rapid enlarging and shrinking of the pupil is "Flashing or Pinning".  Parrots will do this when excited or aggressive/angry.  A Parrot that does this with an aggressive posture will most likely result in a bite!  They will also Pin their eyes when happy to see you, another bird, toy, or anything else he may fancy.

WHISTLING, SINGING, TALKING, ETC:  If your Parrot regularly does any of this for much of the time he is content and happy!

GROWLING:  Parrots such as the African Grey(Congo & Timneh), Senegal, Meyer's, and other poicephalus Parrots are more apt to do this.  A Parrot that does this is NOT a happy Parrot!  They usually will do this when trying to be handled, examined, etc without them wanting this!  We can also add HISSING here for the same reasons.  Many Cockatiels will do this for the same reasons.

PURRING:  This sounds almost like a "vibrating" cell phone.  This usually means a content Parrot, especially while getting "Scritches".  Parrotlets are known for this.

MUTTERING & CHATTERING:  This usually occurs just before bed time.  It is the Parrots way of communicating and touching base with it's flock mates before settling down for the night.  Many will do this while falling a sleep, in a softer tone.  This means they are happy, content and sleepy!

BEAKING:  Just like a small child, Parrots like to explore things with their beaks.  This is when a Parrot will put an object, toy, your finger, etc in his mouth and gently explore with his beak and tongue.

TONGUE-CLICKING:  This is doen when a Parrot clicks his tongue against it's beak.  It is the same sound you would use to get a horse to move.  This is usually done to get your attention, or just self amusement.  

SNEEZING & YAWNING:  This is a normal action and looks and sounds much like a human would.  A Parrot that is sneezing frequently and or bringing up mucus should be a trip to your vet!

GRINDING:  This is when a Parrot will take the upper and lower part of the beak and move it side to side.  It sounds very similar to teeth grinding in humans.  When you here this it means your Parrot is happy, satisfied and secure!  This is often done after a meal, or when getting ready to sleep.

CLICKING:  This is most often heard in Cockatiels, Cockatoos, and Parrotlets.  This is like the snapping of two fingernails, but with their beak.  This is a form of amusement.

JOUSTING:  This is when two Parrots bang their beaks together or grab a hold of each others beaks.  This is just frisky play.  If two Parrots do this and there is a big difference in size?  Keep a close eye for any possible injuries!

REGURGITATING:  If you approach your Parrot and he shakes his head up & down, then throws up on you?  This is his way of feeding you and showing his affection towards you or another Parrot.  This is a normal action Parrots share in the wild or cage.  This behavior should not be enforced due to possible health problems it could cause.

HEAD BOBBING:  This is when a Parrot will rapidly bob it's head up and down while you approach him.  This is a way they show their excitement! 

WIPING:  This is when a Parrot will wipe any food that is on it's beak on perches, dishes, cage bars or any other object.  They like to keep their beaks in top shape!

FANNING:  This is when a Parrot spreads it's tail feathers.  This usually means aggresion or anger.  It is often accompanied with eye pinning.

FLAPPING:  This is a form of exercise and the release of built up energy.  Your Parrot doesn't necessarily want to fly and will grip his perch and flap a way!  This usually occurs when your Parrot is first let out of the cage or when they first wake up.  This feels good to them.

WAGGING:  This is not as continuous as a dogs wag, but a quick back & forth motion.  This is usually done when they are glad to see you!

CROUCHING, HEAD DOWN, INTENSE STARE, EYES PINNED OR FLASHING:  This is an early warning sign of aggression, most likely resulting in attack!

CROUCHING, HEAD DOWN, RELAXED BODY, WINGS RAISED OR FLUTTERING:  This is done to attract attention.  Usually a mating action.

CROUCHING, HEAD TIPPED DOWNWARD:  This means your Parrot wants a scritch!  Give him this pleasure on his head or back of neck. 

BODY UP, HEAD UP, RELAXED:  Your Parrot is in a friendly mood.  Especially if he is moving towards you.

BELLY UP:  If your Parrot is on his back with beak open, eye pinning, rigidity, and feet up means he is prepared to fight to the bloody end!

QUIVERING:  This is when your Parrot is cold, frightened or intimidated.  You may notice this after a good bath.  Some Parrots just do this for no appearent reason, such as Quaker Parakeets.  It will seem like they are shaking/shivering.

STRETCHING:  This is done for the same reasons we do it.  Most Parrots will stretch a wing and leg on the same side.

PREENING:  Preening can be a very social behavior in Parrots.  They do this to spread oils through their feathers, cleaning them, and the pulling of sheaths on pin feathers.  This is a very healthy and important activity.

CREST/NECK FEATHERS UP:  Some Parrots such as Cockatoos, Cockatiels, and Hawk Headed Parrots can raise the feathers on the tops of their heads or neck/back of head.  This is done when they are excited, scared, curious or in an aggressive mood.

STANDING STRAIGHT UP & TALL:  This is usually associated with fear.

FEATHERS TIGHT TO THE BODY:  This is also a fear response.

BEAK SLIGHTLY OPEN:  This could be aggression and may be ready to bite.

This should be done in a different, small, bird proofed room.  STEP UP is the first and most important thing your Parrot needs to learn.  There is no greater feeling than when your Parrot steps on to your finger for the first time when asked to do so.  It is great peace of mind knowing your parrot trusts you and if ever a dangerous situation occurred knowing YOU can trust him to follow this command!  This also makes other things much easier, such as when you clean his cage and need to transfer him to another cage.  Imagine trying to have to "catch" your Parrot every time for such a task.  To start the STEP UP command it is best to see if your Parrot will come out of his cage first.  If he does come out of his cage then praise him!  Give some scritches or his favorite treat.  If you are not quite sure what your Parrots favorite treat is, try food sampling.  Start with a selection of 6 different food items and offer to the Parrot.  Do this more than once and see witch item your Parrot desires most.  Now you know his favorite treat. For the STEP UP gently rub your finger into his chest/belly area and keep saying step up in a firm tone and slowly increase the pressure.  If this doesn't work the first time keep trying this.  If after 10-15 minutes he does not do it and is getting skittish end the session and try again the next day.  STEP UP should be done at least twice a day.  Just remember that this is a request by you so do not ever force it.  STICK TRAINING is done exactly the same way except with a stick or poll.  It is a very good command as you may need it if your Parrot gets into some trouble or is afraid of hands.  If your Parrot flies off on you up some curtains or a tree how are you going to fetch him?  Can you reach him with your finger? No..  A long poll or stick will do the trick.   Always have a long poll or stick around for such situations.  Just remember to be patient and not to get frustrated.  Most Parrots will find it amusing to see there Parronts getting frustrated.  This will just make them do what you DON'T want them to do.  A parrot doesn't know your frustrated or mad, only that it amuses him and he will keep doing so to get those responses.  Wouldn't you? 

Training your Parrot to MIMIC & TALK consists of much repeating of words and sounds.  When saying these words or sounds to your Parrot use a louder enthusiastic voice.  Keep repeating this at least a few times a day.  Parrots are social by nature & if you have many Parrots they may acquire there own "flock" language & it may be more difficult getting your Parrot to talk & mimic sounds.  Some Parrots may never talk but most will at least mimic noises, especially household noises.  Be careful with the words you use frequently around your Parrot.  You just could end up with a foul mouthed, swearing Parrot!

PEEK A BOO is good training in the beginning for both Parrot & human.  It is a good and easy way to get a sense of safety for both parties(a toweled hand can't be bitten).   A good sized towel is needed for this.  Both human and Parrot can get under it.  Parrots are cavity nesters and in nature spend a good amount of time in them(cavities) & peeking out on occasion.  Lay the towel over your Parrot and make him feel secure, when he looks out from under..say, PEEK A BOO!  You also can put the towel over your head and peek out saying PEEK A BOO!  This interactive training should become fun for all and a trusting building block.  The towel then can become a useful tool for getting your Parrots attention & trust for other interactions.

WINDOW TRAINING is a good tool for keeping your Parrot safe, especially if it's allowed out of it's cage.  A Parrot flying into a window can be deadly!  Take your Parrot to all the windows it may come in contact with and touch it's beak into the glass.  Do this several times a day.  Your Parrot will soon & hopefully learn that this is a "clear" hard substance. 

When training a Parrot always be consistent & have a strict pattern through it's life.

PARROT BITING:  Hard biting is almost always a learned behavior.  When a Parrot STEPS UP to your finger, he/she will sometimes reach down and "grab-bite" to get up.  Besides eating, Parrots use their beaks for grabbing and climbing.  There is a difference between normal beak usage and biting.  Is your Parrot is agitated and lunging towards you with beak open?  He/she is trying to bite!  Learn your Parrots body language and if you think he is in "bite" mode back off.  Parrots use their beaks like we use our hands, so there is a difference.  Some Parrots are more beaky "biters" than others too.  In time you will pretty much know the difference between the two with your Parrot.  A Parrot of any size can draw blood.  The hardest I have ever been bitten was from a Budgie and Parrotlet, two of the smaller species of Parrot.  Imagine a Macaw or Cockatoo!  It is hard to do, but if your Parrot does happen to bite you, TRY not to show any emotion.  If you are holding him at this time pretend nothing happened and return him to his cage immediately and walk away.  REMEMBER, a reaction will amuse the Parrot and enforce this behavior.  If your Parrot slowly starts putting more and more pressure while biting you just roll/clench your finger and walk away like nothing happened.  Your Parrot will soon learn that this behavior gets him nothing.  Yelling or striking the Parrot is a NO NO!  This will just cause more behavioral problems, lost trust, and not to mention the abuse of the Parrot!  A Parrot will usually bite out of fear or lack of trust. A guest or person your parrot is not used to, A nervous or aggressive person, red or colored fingernail polish, different colored clothing or hat your Parrot is not used to, or a parrot that is bonded to one person can be some causes for biting.  A bonded Parrot will think of you as part of it's flock mate and a strange/different person could put him on the defensive.  Just because he is friendly towards you or other family members doesn't mean he will not bite a stranger.  Remember that trust goes a long way with a Parrot.  A cage territorial Parrot could also be a reason for biting.  Do not put your fingers in your Parrots cage and think he will never bite, especially with a cage territorial Parrot.  Many Parrots consider their cage as their retreat and their own space.  Never try and touch your Parrot while he is eating.  They generally do not like this and like a dog may just give you a bite!  Never laugh, cry, scream or show excitable emotions when your Parrot does an unwanted act or behavior!  This will sadly encourage & make him want to do it over & over.  A Dominant Parrot is another reason for biting.  Some Parrots are just built this way.  He is just letting you know who is boss!  Most Parrots come from tropical regions where it is dark about 12 hours a night.  To help avoid cranky behavior be sure your Parrot receives 10-12 hours of undisturbed sleep each night.  Molting can also cause your Parrot to be cranky and possibly bite.  Hormone changes can also be causes.  Learn your Parrot & gain his trust. This is usually accomplished during the Step Up training.  Also by talking softly to your Parrot, and having your Parrot take treats from your hand, and consistent, positive interaction will help.  Learning your parrots body language goes a long way in preventing unwanted bites.  

FEATHER PLUCKING:  This is probably the most horrible of all behavioral problems.  Watching your Parrot rip all of his feathers out is a helpless feeling.  Because there are so many different reasons for feather plucking makes it even more difficult to deal with.  Parrots like Cockatoos, African Grays and Macaws seem more prone to doing this.  Some female Lovebirds may do this if nesting materials are absent.  This problem can be caused by physical, emotional and nutritional issues.  Here are some common causes: Illnesses, parasites, low humidity,  a diet lacking in essential nutrients, a hand reared parrot, a fearful or phobic Parrot, health issues, neglect and boredom/pent-up energy, changing owners, a cramped cage, attention seeking, housed with no other parrots, an environment lacking in enrichment and changes to the environment.  You should have plenty of chewable toys and perches.  Make sure your Parrots cage is not directly in front of a window.  Your Parrot will be too exposed and will bring on stress.  The cage should be next to at least one wall, preferably in a corner.  If you have tried all possible cures for this and get no results consider going to a Avian behavior specialist.  In some cases medication and or a collar may be needed.  Remember once again that a possible reaction by the owner could negatively reinforce this behavior (such as, stop that!).  It is a horrible site to see but stay calm and act as if nothing is happening.  Red Palm Oil is reported to help with Plucking.  It also promotes healthy plumage and contains great amounts of Vit A & E.  1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon is the amount to be given to each Parrot.  As with adding any supplement it is best to consult with your vet first. 

SCREETCHING/SCREAMING:  This issue probably causes more owners to give there Parrots up than any.  Generally the bigger the Parrot the louder the Parrot will be.  Also keep in mind that the more Parrots you keep the louder it will get.  The Parrots will try to be louder than the others so he will be heard.  All Parrots will be louder in the morning and evenings.  This is just a part of how they socialize.  A Parrot screaming all day is not normal.  If there are no other issues affecting him it is probably attention seeking.  Again don't give your Parrot a reaction when he is screaming.  Don't yell back in anger, and don't go running over to him every time this happens.  When he is calm and not screaming then give him that extra attention he wanted.  He will learn that screaming will not get him what he wants.  Another thing that works when your Parrots are getting loud is to lower the noise activity in the house (t.v., radio, dishwasher, Etc..).  Neglect, bad housing and boredom can also bring on this unwanted behavior.  Again, if this is not normal behavior for the species of Parrot you have consider going to an avian behavior specialist.  Evaluate your Parrot & it's environment.  Is it's cage big enough?  Does it have enough Toys, such as shredding/destroy toys?  Is his cage located where he can see the whole family?  Is his environment overstimulating with loud and frequent noises?  Does your Parrot have adequate lighting & at least 9-12 hours of sleep?  Are it's sleep, eating and socializing on regular constant schedules?  Is it left alone for many hours a day?  Does he have decent socializing time with you?  Neglect can be a huge reason for this unwanted behavior.  Is there a radio on or t.v. when alone?  These are all things to consider with a screaming Parrot.  Many times a parrot is calling for it's owner/flockmate.  Try using your own contact call with your parrot at a quieter tone than your Parrots.  Mine is the "cat call" whistle.  All our Parrots quiet down because they cannot hear it if they are noisy themselves.  When you leave the room, use this call to let him know where you are.  Keep in contact whenever you leave your parrots area & this may just do the trick.  By not doing this your Parrot may resort to screaming because it wants your attention and has learned that the more persistant and loud he became the more attention he got.  During those times you just can't take it anymore, or need that nap or sleep cover some of the cage.  This will usually quiet the Parrot. 

CAGE TERRITORIAL:  This is when a Parrot becomes territorial & aggressive when someone enters or gets to close to his cage.  Some Parrots are naturally cage territorial & there isn't much you can do about that.  It is best to learn your parrots aggressive behavior & body language during these times.  Let him come out of his cage on his own for your interaction together.  You can also try putting the cage into a different room for socializing. 

MIRROR OBSESSION:  Many Parrots become obsessed with a mirror that has been added to there cage.  They will want nothing to do with you, because they think there reflection is there flock mate.  Unless you DON'T want a "hands" on companion Parrot we do not recommend this. 

ONE PERSON PARROT:  This is when a Parrot bonds to one person in the family.  He can become very nasty to any others who try and socialize with him.  Jealousy towards the bonded person can also divelope if time or attention is not directed toward the Parrot.  When getting a new Parrot try to have him socialize with all members of the family & guests.  Some Parrots will just bond to one person even after this is done.

MATING BEHAVIORS:  It is in a Parrots nature to mate, even in captivity.  Constant mating/nesting & masturbating behaviors can become a health problem.  Parrots can also have sexual actions towards there human owners.  Sometimes a Parrot will try to regurgitate it's food to a human(not always sexual).  This a Parrots way of showing affection..sexual & non sexual.  Ignore this behavior and even walk away if this is attempted.  As a general rule do not scritch/pet your parrot below it's head.  This could stimulate sexual/mating feelings in your Parrot.  With two or even one Parrot you should not supply the cage with any kind of nesting places or materials.  Hollowed logs, Coconuts, nests and other nesting materials should be avoided.  These items can spring mating in your Parrots or egg laying in a female.  If you are trying to breed two Parrots, then this is perfectly fine.

PICKY/FINICKY EATING:  Parrots need a large variety of foods to keep them healthy & happy.  Some Parrots are very picky eaters and some just won't go near certain foods.  Be persistent when offering foods.  Just because a Parrot won't eat something the first 2-3 times doesn't mean he won't.  You may be shocked to see your Parrot eating something a year later.   Try different methods for presenting these foods.  Hang foods from a veggie clip or foraging containers at different depths of the cage, mix with other more common foods or there favorites, Or even try sweetening with honey to entice eating.  Alternate all types of foods on a regular basis.  Remember also that your Parrot is a flock animal.  Your Parrot will consider you a part of his flock.  Try eating these items in front of your Parrot to show him how good it is.  Also if you have other Parrots that are good eaters place there eating bowls close by.  This may stimulate your finicky eater into eating different items.  Have a calm and quiet atmosphere when your Parrot is eating.  This will make things easier.   As mentioned at the beginning of this page jealousy is a great tactic!  If you have another Parrot offer him a food item close to your "picky" eater and make a great deal about how good this is!  Remember, Parrots usually want what the other has!  For a list of good and bad Parrot foods visit our  GOOD AND BAD PARROT FOODS page.

THE FEARFUL PARROT:  Parrots are prey animals & have the "fight or flight" instinct built in them.  Constant fear reactions can be stressful on a Parrot and can lead to a weakened immune system.  Prolonged fear can lead to undesired fearful habitual behaviors.  If your Parrot starts flying into cage bars, thrashing and falling off of perches upon a human entering a room, this is a fearful Parrot!  To help with this Parrot the first phases of training are a must.  The STEP UP & PEEK A BOO are good ways of gaining trust and easing your Parrot.  All members of the human family must use calm, slow body movements.  Talk softly to your Parrot if he is in a bout of fearfulness or even sing him a silly song!.  Avoid using a "straight on" stare when looking at your Parrot.  Prey animals do this and will make your Parrot fearful.  Avoid wearing hats, bright fingernail polish, different clothing and taking off coats in front of the Parrot.  Use a good non-threatening body posture around this Parrot.  Some Parrots are also fearful of new objects such as new toys, furniture etc.  This prolonged fear if not rectified could result in your Parrot plucking.  Introduce new things to your Parrot slowly and periodically and he will soon realize they are not bad. 

5 things to remember that can help with a fearful parrot!

* Never force your parrot to do anything.

* Building a relationship takes time.  Patients on your part is a must.

* Be positive no matter what around this Parrot.  Interaction and training should be as stress free as possible for your Parrot.

* Treats are a great way of rewarding positive behavior.

* Interaction and training should be short sessions.  Don't over do it.

FORCED WEANING:  We will add this as this can cause behavioral problems at the earliest of ages.  This applies mainly to "hand raised" breeders & those who hand feed there baby Parrots.  Many young Parrots are forced weaning too young so the Parrot gets to the pet store or buyer quicker.  When this is done many times it leaves the Parrot feeling insecure and sometimes, permanently hungry.  By trying to wean them on seed or pellets too early can be very bad for there health and state of mind.  If you do have a Parrot that is ready to be weaned it is suggested that you use all kinds of soft foods, such as fruit(soft), cooked pastas, cooked grains, beans & corn.

CHRONIC EGG LAYING:         

Chronic egg laying can be a very dangerous issue with some female Parrots.  Female Cockatiels seem to be more prone to this.  This is when a female will either constantly lay eggs or lay them every few months.  It is a hormonal issue.  These hormones are usually triggered by the longer spring/summer daylight.  This condition can cause Calcium depletion and or Egg binding.  Both are very serious and could cause death.  To help battle this condition we will give a few pointers.  1. Cut the lighting hours to below 12.  2. Re arrange the Parrots cage.  3. Try to avoid soft warm foods.  4. Cut way back on baths.  5. Do not provide any dark areas on the bottom of the cage.  6. Do not provide nest boxes, places or materials to nest with.  Do not remove any eggs the female has laid!  This will just cause her to lay more to replace them.  Allow the hen 18-21 days to sit on the eggs before removing them or if the hen gets bored with them.  Provide extra Calcium and Protein for the Parrot during this time.  If the condition continues, the parrot may need hormone shots or even possibly a hysterectomy.  Be sure to consult with an experienced avian vet.

NIGHT FRIGHTS:

This is very common in Cockatiels and sometimes Indian Ring Neck Parakeets.  All Parrots can have these though.  Common causes are sudden loud noises, car headlights flashing through the window, another animal walking by the cage, shadows, fireworks, thunder and lightning, etc.  This is very traumatic to the Parrot and owner!  Injuries can also happen as the Parrot is frantically flying about blindly in his cage because his "flight" instinct is in overdrive.  If this were to happen turn on the lights and gently talk your Parrot down.  Be sure to check him for injuries after this is accomplished.  Here are some things that may help prevent this from happening.  A noise maker set to low with natural sounds, a night light near the cage, and if you do cover the cage at night leave a portion off for some light to get through.  Also, do not move the cage into an unfamiliar situation.  We once changed our whole flocks cages around and the very first night we had a full blown flock night fright!  We put the cages back to where they were the very next day!